Turning off the Alaska Highway, we drove, instead, the byways of the Yukon. On the old Alaska Highway, we found ourselves in the tiny settlement of Champagne. A brief history, outlined on a sign at the edge of the village, did not prepare us for exploring the townsite. There are still a few aboriginal people living in the settlement. One of them, a young man, approached us as soon as we arrived. He was eager to tell us some of the history and point out which log cabin had once been the RCMP headquarters and which one was the former jailhouse.